An Allagash Boneyard

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Sometimes you need an extra push to commit to a beer dinner. So, in that vein, check out this Boneyard Bistro menu and the Allagash beers that they are pairing with it….(One big plus is that you have some choice in this matter)

STARTERS
Pineapple & Green Chile Shrimp Sopes with Guacamole | Cotija
*Allagash Tiarna

or

Kobe Donut Sliders with Strawberry Jelly | Bacon Jam
*Allagash Avance

ENTRÉE
Crispy Jerk Fried Chicken with Mango Chutney | Smashed Plantains
*Allagash Victoria

or

Braised Short Rib with Ancho-Cocoa Mole | “Street” Corn | Spanish Rice
*Allagash St. Klippenstein

(another) or

Seared Scallops with Kafir Lime Rum Butter | Grilled Mango | Thai Basil | Fried Rice
*Allagash Little Brett

DESSERT
Bourbon-Cream Filled Churros with Coffee Dust
*Allagash James Bean

or

Stonefruit & Cardamom Cheeescake Truffles
*Allagash Interlude

Cooking with Hops

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Most craft beer cookbooks either fall into the camp of A) what to pair with beer or B) cooking with beer. But what about using the ingredients of beer in cooking, specifically hops?

That is the task undertaken by the Kickstarter funded book: Hedonistic Hops – The Hopeheads Guide to Kitchen Badassery by Marie Porter with photographs (and some commentary) from Michael Porter.

This book walks you through from growing your own hops all the way to harvesting and then the recipes that they can be used in. Of course, you can always buy hops and use those and the Porters are nimble enough to make recipes that can be used with fresh hops, pellets and even the shoots and leaves too.

The tone is genial sometimes verging on the hokey. I am still wondering about the choice of “badassery” for the sub-title but overall it is like talking to the somewhat goofy aunt or the dad with bad jokes while they are cooking. It is a welcoming tone throughout and the instructions and hop information is laid out in a way to re-focus on cooking and not brewing.

The main chunk of the book is devoted to recipes. Starting with appetizers and sides, then proceeding to Main Dishes, condiments, desserts before finishing at beverages.

For me, the section on condiments and sauces was the most intriguing. Creating a BBQ glaze or hoppy butter seems to be something that can be used in many different meal preparations and I think is under represented in cookbooks. Same goes for the beverages section. Making hop accented ice tea or lemonade are cool and quick ideas that adds something extra to a dinner.

If you cannot get enough hops and like brownies with green flecks in them, this might be the cookbook for you.

A Very Short Crawl

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A Mosaic Single Hop Imperial IPA doesn’t much sound like a beer from SoLArc Brewing. The Highland Park brewers tend to much weirder and hop-less beers. But add in Sumac berries and now it sounds more like their strange creations. Then factor in that the beer is brewed for the Josef Centeno group of DTLA restaurants and things start making more sense.

Recently, I made the short crawl through the four restaurants on 4th and Main tasting the same BacöBeer at each location but paired with totally different foods.
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I am not an adventurous eater by any stretch. But this was an opportunity to test how one beer, and a hopped one no less, paired with some really rich foods. As the above menu card details, this is not the typical food truck outside a taproom food pairing. And except for the shrimp, I had never tasted beef tongue, chicken liver mousse or bone marrow. This would make for a whole new world for me.

Plus, our beer hostess for the night Genevieve Hardison pulled out some other bottles at each stop to see how they paired with each course too. Each of the four restaurants have different cuisines so each, have different taps and bottle lists to accommodate that. The lists comprise a little from all sorts of worlds. The Mexican themed Bar Ama has Pacifico and Negro Modelo alongside Evil Twin and Insurgente while Orsa & Winston has Belgian and Japanese beers side by side.
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Onto the results of the pairing:
Course 1 – The flavorful but balanced bacö was the clear best pairing of the beer to food. The Sumac and the bitterness added to the harissa and aioli and also cleared away the rich flavor with the carbonation. We also tried the OG gose from Leipzig which was good but didn’t have the heft to compete.

Course 2 – The mousse was paired wonderfully with the kumquat gastrique and the IPA was too much for that combo of flavors. The Augustiner Edelstoff, on the other hand, was perfect. Light and simple it added a slight floral component to the dish.

Course 3 – I was looking forward to the shrimp since it was the one item on the list that was “safe” in my eyes. But boy the chile was kicked up on these. Granted my Scoville tolerance is low but these were powerful and that spice kick rolled over the Evil Twin smoked lager, Cowboy. (Which I really liked) and even over the Insurgente IPA and the SoLArc brew.

Course 4 – This was an elaborate spread with the really lovely amazake toast and the buttery bone marrow with a garnish of little micro greens on top. The best beer for this was the new-to-me Baird beer, The Carpenter’s Mikan. An orange meets potpourri beer that was both delicate and very flavorful. It added that citrus note while brushing aside the slickness of the food.
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For an IPA, it’s not really imperial, the BacöBeer pairs pretty well across those food spectrums. It never outright rejected the food it was paired with and actually was probably the best choice for courses one and three. I personally think that it helps out the bigger, heftier foods with strong flavors and works less well with lighter, more delicate flavors or anything with a bit of bitterness that sorta fights the Sumac.

Holy Cheese!

Sometimes pairing cheese and beer is daunting. Hell, picking the right beer and/or cheese means staring at a cooler and second-guessing yourself.

But your helpful Cicerone’s have laid out an easy chart to make the process easier….
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Memorize or print out the next time you are at your beer/cheese monger’s.

CeleB&Rator

Recently, I saw an ice cream and beer pairing put together by Baskin-Robbins and All About Beer Magazine.
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One of the pairings got me motivated enough to go get the ice cream (not that hard) and a beer to go with it. (even less hard to do)
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Here are the results….
On it’s own, the German dopplebock is quite sweet to an almost caramel point but with a certain lightness to it. Having a sip after the ice cream really brings out the tobacco smoke from the beer as well as drying it out. Neither the chocolate of peanut butter from the ice cream seems changed all that much. Both are pretty rich and the dark lager only seems to cut the butterfat a bit without adding anything to the dessert.
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I can see the point of using a lager against a doubly rich ice cream but I think it doesn’t quite work in this case. Peanut butter being too much for the ABV of the beer. I don’t know what beer style would work with this without distortion. I’m thinking of the banana bread beer and wondering what that might be like….

Dine L.A. @ Federal Bar

I usually take a pass on press/media dinners that aren’t billed as beer-centric but I hadn’t been to the Federal Bar in NoHo for too long and felt it was time to see if I could covertly add some craft beer to my Dine L.A. menu.
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dine L.A. is the excuse you need to check out different restaurants that you have been meaning to eat at but just haven’t done it. And for the craft beer fan, it is a great way to see how different beers pair with a set course of dishes.

You get two courses at lunch and three at dinner so you can get a couple of beers of different styles and then see which one works the best with your appetizer, main course or dessert.

The Federal Bar offered up a wide array of options that you can get with dinner such as the MCO Burger (moo-cluck-oink), short ribs, fish, mac and cheese and a pair of desserts.

Beer fans will note that they have some of the Fat Tire collabs on tap as well as new to LA, Laurelwood Brewing. If you wanted to get super pricey, there were some Garage Project ales too.

Restaurant Week takes place over July 18-31, 2016, including weekends and the prices are as follows:
Lunch (2+ Courses): $15, $20, $25
Dinner (3+ Courses): $29, $39, $49, $95+ (dineL.A. Exclusive Series)

Brewed Food

Many beer and food pairing dinners will add a beer to the ingredient mix. And while that is novel in its own way, the new concept under the name Brewed Food is “going beyond using finished beers to utilizing yeasts for fermentation, wort, spent grain, hops, etc..”
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And if that intrigues you then you may want to keep your eyes peeled for when Chef and Certified Cicerone Jensen Cummings brings his Brewed Food tour to Los Angeles and San Diego in May. At each stop of the tour “local chefs and brewers host an interactive workshop of beer yeast fermented foods and other brewing ingredient foods paired with beers.”

Basically, this approach turns the brewhouse into a pantry of sorts to inspire dishes to pair with beers. Considering that Chef Jensen was the National Hop Chef Champion of 2014 (which I did not even know existed) leads me to think that this might be more than beer dinner business as usual and might rejuvenate the craft beer dinner event in general.

El Segundo Mex

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What happens when you have a certified Cicerone team up with El Segundo hoppy IPAs? Well tomorrow night, Chef Anne Conness (who has also created two exclusive beers for the restaurant to compliment her cuisine.)will present three courses of spicy food at Sausal.

Course #1 – Goat Cheese Stuffed Jalapeño Popper Salad with Mango, Frisée, Endive, and Bacon (paired with El Segundo Brewing Co.’s Citra Pale Ale)

Course #2 – Pork Adobo Stuffed Tamale with Deep Dark Black Mole Sauce, Avocado, and Pico de Gallo (paired with El Segundo Brewing Co.’s Hop Plunge IPA)

Course #3 – Rancho Beef Short Rib with Cabbage Slaw, Hominy, and Cilantro (paired with El Segundo Brewing Co.’s Power Plant Triple IPA)

Dessert – Mexican Chocolate Truffles (for the table)

Reservations can be made in advance by calling (310) 322-2721.

Beer Dinner Review – Lost in the Woods

I did not know that Pedaler’s Fork in Calabasas was not only a restaurant but also a bike shop and coffee spot as well. Plus it was the host of a beer pairing dinner with the challenging foudre based beers of New Belgium Brewing.
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Thanks to the generosity of New Belgium, I was able to learn more on the Art (and Science) of Beer and Food pairing with the challenging and damn tasty, sour beers from the Fort Collins Foeder Forest.

Course # 1 – Shrimp Pasta with Black Pepper Nage and Pea Tendrils paired with Transatlantique Kriek
This was an odd choice. The bright and tart cherry from the Kriek was dulled by the cream and salt of the shrimp and the pasta. The cherry didn’t get a chance to shine and would have been better served with a salad that had some cheese and nuts in it. The ravioli were quite good as was the sauce and the beer was fantastic (my second favorite of the night) but combined they just didn’t add anything.

Course # 2 – Braised Pork Shoulder with Charred Celeriac Puree and Dried Apricot Sauce paired with La Folie Sour Brown
Now this worked! The light touch of apricot with the pork really found a willing partner in the La Folie which added a tart bite and notes of barrel wood to the food.

Course # 3 – Chocoloate Mousse Cake with Chocolate-Blackberry Ice Cream and Blackberry Sauce paired with NBB Love
First off, this beer is beyond excellent. It was so good. Subtle whiskey mixing with tart and a bit of blackberry as well. The chocolate mousse was fine. But in comparison it was the undercard of the dessert course. I had the cake and had sips of the beers and it was fine but it didn’t light a fire. A blackberry sorbet or gelato with chocolate cookies might have been stronger.
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Kudos to New Belgium though for the thoughtful swag though. A really cool wood coaster with the Lost in the Woods logo, a napkin with the logo and a keychain bottle opener with wood and metal too. SO much better than a glass. Well done.

Truffle Caps

But not the mushroom kind because I cannot stand fungi. Rather the chocolate version…
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..from Moonstruck Chocolatiers that includes beer flavors from Rogue, Widmer, Deschutes and Full Sail. Plus the bottle cap design is quite clever.

(They also have a distillers variety pack too!)