DRAFT’s Top 25 Beers of the Year (2009)
Here are their choices from their January/February issue followed by my comments.
Union Jack (American IPA) — Firestone Walker Brewing Co.
This beer remains king of its kind with back-to-back GABF gold medals in 2008 and 2009. There’s some stiff competition in the American IPA category, the largest ever with 134 entries this year, but this brew continually proves to be truly exceptional, oozing an inspiring piney, citrusy, and floral hop profile.
Sean says…This is a good offering but Velvet Merkin is the better Firestone choice.
Estate (Wet-hopped Ale) — Sierra Nevada Brewing Co.
Sierra Nevada made beer history this year when it crafted a large-scale-production brew using barley and hops grown right on the brewery’s premise. Sure, it’s a provocative story, but the beer simply blew us away: Estate’s a swallow to behold with snappy hop character, lasting bitterness, and a light, fruity finish.
Sean says…Again, I would have chosen the Kellerweiss over this IPA. Kellerweiss doesn’t have the Estate story behind it but to me is better.
Cuvee de Castleton (American Sour Ale) — Captain Lawrence Brewing Co.
This Westchester, N.Y. brewery has turned heads the last few years with its lineup of intriguing sour beers; today, its Cuvee de Castleton is one of the finest on the market. Light, bubbly, and tart, the award-winning brew gets its spunk from wild yeast and Muscat grapes, and subtle oak notes from French wine barrels.
Sean says…The Captain deserves a seat at the table. Have not had this beer but the one Lawrence beer I did have was great.
Kiwanda Cream ALE (Cream Ale) — Pelican Pub & Brewery
One of just a few carryovers from last year’s list, this beer continues to be the one every beer drinker should stock in their fridge. The multi-award winning Kiwanda is light-bodied with gently toasted grains and an incredibly bright finish. Moderately bitter and perfectly balanced, there’s not a more refreshing beer in America today.
Sean says…This is Pelican’s flagship. Good to see a cream ale on the list.
Stone Kona Coffee Macadamia Coconut Porter (Specialty Beer) — Stone Brewing, Maui Brewing, and homebrewer Ken Schmidt
Take three rock star brewers, add 1,000 pounds of coconut, 3,000 pounds of macadamia nuts, and 200 pounds of Kona coffee, and you’ve got a recipe for utter awesomeness. As part of Stone’s collaboration series, homebrewer Ken Schmidt, Maui Brewing’s Garret Morrero, and Stone’s Mitch Steele tapped Schmidt’s award-winning porter homebrew recipe, filled it with fresh ingredients and aloha spirit to craft this swoon-inducing brew. A full coffee flavor’s rounded out by beautiful coconut and macadamia swaths, creating a cohesive swallow; alcohol warms the chest, just like a good cup o’ joe.
Sean says…Twice, I have tried to get a taste of this and twice denied. Can’t argue with inclusion on the list if it is that popular.
Oude Kriek (Blended Lambic) — Hanssens
Fourth-generation, family-owned Hanssens is one of the last breweries in the world dedicated to the dying art of lambic blending. Oude Kriek is its crowning creation, a beer born of untold skill and artistry. Beneath its brilliant red hue is a pungent, acidic swallow that sinks into gorgeous cherry and lingering almond notes. Fizzy and dry, it’s a joy to drink.
Sean says…Yet to have this one but I do love Krieks.
Orval Trappist Ale (Belgian Ale) — Brasserie d’Orval
This beer, made by Trappist monks, consistently tops beer geeks’ favorites lists, and for good reason: When it comes to complexity and subtlety, there isn’t a more refined brew in the world. A sip starts with rich grain sweetness before turning sideways and exposing its wild side; we wouldn’t call this a sour ale, but its mild tartness may catch the uninitiated off guard. Sample it with sushi: It will change your life.
Sean says…This is a solid beer. Would I put it on a Top 25 list? I don’t know. Top 50. Not mine but an overall one? Yes.
Duvel (Belgian Golden Strong) — Duvel Moortgat
When brewers want to craft a Belgian golden strong ale, they emulate Duvel. It scored a perfect 100 points in DRAFT’s 2009 ratings, quite simply because it’s everything this style should be and more. Pale gold and full-bodied, Duvel displays amazing ripe pear characters and finishes remarkably dry. Careful — it’s easy to imbibe, and hides its 8.5% ABV well.
Sean says…Go Green! I would have taken the new to the US Duvel Green first. Regular is a classic but the Green is a fabulous beer.
Vlad the Imp Aler (American Sour Ale) — Cascade Brewing Co.
Cascade Brewing stole both gold and silver in this year’s GABF wood- and barrel-aged sour beer category, and though Vlad was the runner-up, it’s still a big winner this year. It debuted in 2009 to healthy buzz and long lines at festivals, turning heads with its full body, palate-smacking acidity, and brazen woody overtones.
Sean says…I am so glad recognition is coming to Ron & Curtis at Cascade. They are good guys and their sours are great.
Mirror Mirror (Barleywine) — Deschutes Brewing Co.
Though it launched in 2006, this beer hibernated for three years before its 2009 re-release caused a stir. While many barleywines are bottled young and taste best after some time in the cellar, this beer is at its absolute best today. Rich caramel and soft fruit notes make strong impressions above moderate alcohol warmth. As massive as this beer is, it somehow manages to lay gently on the tongue and finish dry.
Sean says…I would have left this one off the list. Good barleywine but so is Doggie Claws from Hair of the Dog. I would have chosen an inventive IPA like Nelson from Alpine.
Grand Cru (American Sour Ale) — Upstream Brewing Co.
Admittedly, Grand Cru’s on the rare and obscure list, but it’s well worth seeking out. Its orange-gold appearance and minimalist head belie the beer’s exquisite aromas of soft fruits attached to a pungent backbone. To best appreciate all of the brew’s intense characters, let it breathe for five minutes, and the high acidity will blow off. What’s left is a royal treat of complex berry and citrus bursts, wild tart undertones, and an incredibly dry finish.
Sean says…Rare and obscure. Yup. I have not heard of it.
Consecration (Barrel-Aged Sour Ale) — Russian River Brewing Co.
Vinnie Cilurzo and his team hit a home run with Consecration, the first beer to be brewed in his new brewery. It’s deep reddish brown, has mild carbonation, and packs a mighty punch with its sourness and alcohol level. Consecration is aged in Cabernet Sauvignon barrels, that lend a wonderful wine-like quality to the brew, while robust malt character and a wallop of berry sweetness round out this exquisite beer. Welcome to your new Brewery, Russian River.
Sean says…Something from RR was bound to be on the list. I have a bottle of this aging for a bit before I open it up.
Smoked Porter (Smoked Beer) — Alaskan Brewing Co.
This smoked porter had a decorated history to live up to — it’s won more medals than any other beer in GABF history — and this vintage delivered in spades. On the palate, it’s smooth and slightly sweet with coffee and cocoa, covered by a thick and lovely layer of alder smoke that’s bacony and a little fishy. It’s an acquired taste, but one you’ll never forget.
Sean says…I appreciate this beer but it is not one of my favorites. Smoke beer and extreme sours would be verboten from my top 25.
Utopias (American Strong Ale) — Boston Beer Co.
Many in beer geekdom ask if this is really a beer; the real enigma is just how Utopias scales a jaw-dropping 27% ABV through natural fermentation. While it pushes the beer boundary, it’s an experience worth every cent: Actually a blend of several aged beers (including a few from Scotch barrels), this year’s version is layered with malts and sweetness, and offers more fruit and port notes than vintages past. Boozy and uncarbonated, Utopias sips like liquor, but yes, it’s still beer.
Sean says…Not beer in my humble opinion. One or two sips is enough of this former ABV champ.
Head Hunter IPA (American IPA) — Fat Head’s Brewery & Saloon
A mix of amazement and curiosity rippled across the beer-soaked land when word broke that a brewery in Cleveland bested a plethora of West Coast brewers at this year’s IPA festival at the Bistro, the biggest IPA competition west of the Mississippi. After a pint of this beer, however, you’ll cast all hesitations aside: It lumbers over the tongue with caramelized malt and a hop display that cannot be rivaled. This isn’t your finesse IPA; there isn’t an ounce of subtlety to it. It’s just a punch-you-in-the-mouth brew for those who truly love their hops.
Sean says…I am glad to see an East Coast IPA chosen but Kern River or Ballast Point should also get a nod.
Tripel (Belgian Tripel) — Westmalle
Our first-ever 100-point scoring beer, this practically perfect brew’s been around for a few hundred years and is truly the hallmark of the tripel style. Pale and inviting from the pour with hints of pear and fresh-cracked pepper, this monk-made brew seems heaven-sent from start to finish. Add its light body and snappy carbonation, and you’ll realize big beers don’t need to be heavy-hitters; there’s truly an art to subtle goodness.
Sean says…Haven’t had this in a while. Like the Duvel and Orval could be considered a perennial Top 25.
Sgt. Pepper (Saison) — Cambridge Brewing Co.
Here’s an easy recipe for a killer beer: Take a masterfully brewed saison and add black, pink, white, and green peppercorns. One of Cambridge’s most creative brews, Sgt. Pepper blends peppercorns’ herbal, floral qualities with Belgian yeast. The crisp swallow starts sweet with bready malts and a slight hop bitterness before bursting into pepper spice.
Sean says…Pepper? Sounds a bit gimmicky. Saison to me is Dupont. If it strays to far, I get concerned.
Humidor Series Chaveta (Wood-Aged Beer) — Cigar City Brewing
This gorgeous new brew was one of 2009’s tasting highlights. Aged with cedar planks, the beer’s infused with so much wood and tobacco character, it tastes as if it was actually aged in a humidor. A stretch of chocolate, fresh-roasted nuts, and sensuous caramel swell through the mouth, but it’s the body that’s truly unreal: creamy, full, and silky without being heavy.
Sean says…Having only a sample of Cigar City at the tail end of GABF leaves me ill equipped to comment on this. Glad to see a non-bourbon barrel selection though.
Canadian Breakfast Stout (Barrel-Aged Imperial Stout) — Founders Brewing Co.
There’s little disputing the impressive quality of Founders Breakfast Stout; it’s one of the finest beers made in America. Put that in barrels soaked in bourbon and oozing with fresh maple syrup, and the beer becomes simply extraordinary. This 9.5%-ABV 2009 stunner wraps everything wonderful about the original stout — hints of cocoa, a coffee aroma, and deep roasted malt — in a warm embrace of vanilla, maple, and bourbon heat.
Sean says….I cannot imagine how the Breakfast can be improved with aging. The original is so good. I will have to compare before rendering a final decision.
Saison d’ Erpe Mere (Saison) — Brouwerij de Glazen Toren
In a world of palate-wrangling beers, discovering a complex brew that’s also easy on the tongue is rare and wonderful. This one’s a favorite. Bright and refreshing, flavors start biscuity before running slightly tart, with floral hops that contribute a modest bite. This brew finishes impressively dry, has beautiful effervescence, and boasts a modest 6.9% ABV that makes it all feel guilt-free.
Sean says…Anytime a saison gets on a list instead of an Imperial-Double-Barrel aged beer, I like it. It is now on my list to try.
Eclipse Imperial Stout (Russian Imperial Stout) — FiftyFifty Brewing Co.
In the craze to make everything bigger, stronger, and fuller we’ve nearly lost our sense of what an imperial stout should be. This beer’s inky and black, big enough to slay the biggest palate, but still drinkable beyond just sipping. Rich chocolate, coffee, and caramel sweetness don’t weigh heavily on the tongue, and a modest hop flavor and dry finish round this beer out perfectly.
Sean says…50-50 gets props. Cool. For a RIS, OK I guess. Maybe Uncommon Brewers should have nabbed this slot.
Baltic Porter (Baltic Porter) — Duck-Rabbit Brewery
Lately, something new’s been brewing in the South: really excellent beer. This North Carolina porter is a full-bodied phenom: It’s black as night with flavors that range from fresh-roasted coffee and caramel to plums and sweet blackberry. If you’re not familiar with what a Baltic porter should be, look no further than this.
Sean says…I have the Duck-Rabbit Milk Stout in the ‘fridge. I want to try it but I don’t want it gone to quick.
Brooklyn-Schneider Hopfen-Weisse (Hybrid Wheat Beer) — Brooklyn Brewery and Schneider Brewery
Our favorite old-meets-new collaboration project, Garrett Oliver of Brooklyn Brewery and Hans-Peter Drexler of the Schneider Brewery in Germany have broken down borders to craft an absolute gem. Based on the traditional German wheat beer style and heavily influenced by America’s love of hops, this beer bursts with pungent, oily hop aromas that play against the beer’s lovely lemony wheat qualities. We’re all for collaborative efforts when they result in a brew like this.
Sean says…Not one of my favorite beers. The mix doesn’t quite work. I have had the same problem with Belgian IPA’s that have flavors that are battling each other instead of complementing each other.
Bourbon Barrel Stout (Wood-Aged Stout) — Odell Brewing Co.
This beer is indisputable proof Odell knows how to pull nuances out of a barrel. Dark and roasty with vanilla and caramel hints, it’s kissed ever so gently by the bourbon barrel’s orange and woody notes. It’s a big beer, certainly; it sinks deep into the tongue, but the swallow’s intricacies aren’t washed away by the brew’s size.
Sean says…Odells is on my list. I have to try any of their wares. I would choose 90 Shilling or Hibernation first though.
Wisconsin Belgian Red (Fruit Beer) — New Glarus Brewing Co.
A perennial favorite, this beer’s landing on our list three years in a row. Sourcing two pounds of Door County Cherries per barrel and featuring Wisconsin wheat, the brewers age, bottle, and sell Belgian Red only in the cheese state. It glows ruby-red and drinks like a piece of handmade candy, sugary sweet and incredibly fun. The effervescence and dry finish, combined with the low ABV (just over 5%), make this way too easy to imbibe in good quantity. There’s not a more fruity honest-to-goodness fruit beer in America.
Sean says…Great choice. If New Glarus was not on the list, I would have rioted.
