I have really only heard Gustavo Arellano before and not read either of his books or his famous “Ask a Mexican” column. That voice is distinctive and opinionated which is why I like hearing his take on everything from Orange County politics on KCRW or tacos on the Netflix show Ugly Delicious with David Chang.
So, after watching the taco episode (finally, I know that I am behind), I picked up Arellano’s book Taco USA to further my knowledge.
And it was a fun survey of Mexican food and its impact on the United States and its food culture and how the tectonic clash has created all sorts of sub-styles across the country. I learned about so many different dishes but more interesting were the little histories of tortillas in a can or the creation of “American” salsa. Remember “get a rope” from the Pace commercials?
And, thankfully, Arellano’s voice comes through loud and clear in print as well. Whether it is a take down of Rick Bayless or describing a trip to see the shards of a tortilla that supposedly had the face of Jesus on it.
To drink while reading the book, it seems appropriate to head to Santa Ana and the Good Beer Company. Maybe have their Senorita Gose or Abuela Wild Ale.
Or you could pick up something from the not-as-hot now Mexican Lager category. Dos Topas from Topa Topa Brewing or Mexican Lager from Ska Brewing come to mind.
Or as an authentic option, pick up a bottle from La Insurgente, a Mexican craft brewery.