http://www.powells.com/book/mezcal-rush-explorations-in-agave-county-9781619028449/62-0
I was perusing the new food and bev. books at the renovated Glendale Central Library when I noticed The Mezcal Rush tucked in amongst the choices. Not knowing much about either the drink or the author, I took a flyer and checked it out.
Writer Granville Greene takes you to far flung points in the hinterlands of Mexico to mezcal fabricas to introduce us to the maestro mezcaleros who create this agave based spirit. Very distinct from the tequila that Americans know about.
Along the way we learn the process of making Mezcal and the people who make it and their differing opinions on it.
I learned about the diversity of agave plants. Their biology and their destruction and preservation. I learned about what makes Mezcal separate from tequila and the different style variants and I learned about how it is blended and marketed and sold to bars and restaurants for prices north of $100 while the distiller might live in a town with one phone. I also learned that I would make a crappy artisanal Mezcal maker and would probably end up stuck on the spines of an agave. Even weirder still, I learned there is a Mezcal made with poultry and spices called pechuga.
Greene writes with wonder throughout. He treads a fine line between participant, friend, fan and drinker to bring the inside story to those who don’t know about it. He hits several sub-themes that craft beer fans will recognize and though he sometimes prods a particular point a bit hard, still does not come across as preachy. The agave illustrations are really cool as the chapter breaks but I wish there were photos of the fabricas and the people and of the agave harvesting. That would have added another layer to a fascinating tale.
To pair with this dive into the world of Mezcal, the first stop would be Coronitas. The stubby bottles of Corona that are referenced as the drink of choice from small town to small town.
Closer to home, I would pick Foam Top Cream Ale from Beachwood Brewing. There is a Mezcal variant called Crema that made me think of cream ales.
Since I have not seen an agave beer or a beer aged in Mezcal barrels, I will have to recommend Tequila Merkin from Firestone a Walker as a close substitute. But when you drink it, remind yourself that tequila is to Mezcal what an ale is to a lager.
